I normally like to start my post's off with a narrative, a jaunty little tale that segways towards the interesting and sometimes mildly amusing. A link to the past, to a moment, to art or music or literature, something that can make sense of my dining experience in the context of my own realm. But, as I sat in the dining room at Simon Rogan's "FERA", in the stately Hotel of Claridge's in Mayfair, I realised that there was no need to walk down this reflective path. The narrative was indeed superfluous. There was and is no need because Simon Rogan's food becomes and is the narrative. A narrative within the meal, one that extends out beyond the dining room to the producers of the food, but also encapsulates the chef’s own journey. He takes you on this journey though the conceptualized nature of the delicious food that he cooks. You can taste the years of craft in each brilliant dish. There is something that this restaurant did that no other in its "genre" of modern dining did; the food connected with me on an intimate level. It delivered very modern food back to a place that I could relate to. On occasions I have dined in places that represent the new avant-garde of cuisine who employ the cutting edge techniques, liquid center pasta, soils of all description, dehydrated milk; the list goes on and on. And, although artful, thoughtful, cerebral, well conceived and executed there has always been something missing. The veritable missing link. These experience has always left me a little cold as they failed to nourish my soul. It was as if the chef was trying to impress with skills rather than nourishing both my mind and body. Which is why, Simon Rogan, for want of a better less clichéd, sloppy and over used phrase, "had me at hello" (cringe). Allow me to explain.

Placed before me on a rather nifty ceramic plate was a small white ball that looked as it were covered in small white petals, beneath sat a dob of the greenest, smoothest puree I have seen. A thin cracker of chickpea with a hint of smoked eel had tempted my palate, but I was more than excited by what was now placed before me. As I bit into this "snack" I found that it was indeed filled with tender and delicious braised rabbit, the outside was pure crunch with onion tapioca, whist the green puree was lovage. This was the classic "ratatouille" moment, popping it in my mouth it's flavours were so familiar, so utterly delicious and textural I was taken back to my own apprenticeship in the kitchen with "the Frenchman" (as I refer to him as) and a classic dish of braised rabbit with mustard and roots that I had prepared on many an occasion, then, fast forward to a rather coolish day in the Hunter Valley in NSW. A bottle of 1983 Hunter River "Burgundy" and dining on a wonderful braised rabbit at the excellent and unpretentious Bistro Moline’s. These memories linked what was before me to my experiences and back again, the depth of flavour, the melting texture. This dish sitting before me was nothing like the classic country bistro dish I was used too, but the flavours and the textures were. This was an ultra modern interpretation. Yes it was new and avant-gade, but it touched a memory and an emotion. I understood it, I felt it. It wasn't just a gob full of food. It invited me in, poured me a drink and had a conversation with me. This is what all great dishes should do.

The next was a "snack of Oxtail with potato foam, A smallish cup topped with a delicate potato cloud which hid a magical oxtail broth with pieces of the unctuous meat drifting in it. Ethereal is the word that comes to mind, the ultimate Shepard’s pie, if indeed the pie was served by cherubs floating on a cloud. Childhood memories of oxtail stew, but once again delivered in a way that was so far from my mums version it could have fallen from outer space. If I had stopped at theses two dishes I could have walked away happy. Also presented were a pumpkin macaroon, sweet yet savory and a (langoustine? sorry I was overwhelmed*) cigar. Both very good, indeed excellent, but when the wall paper is painted by Monet then everything else seems to lose a little gloss no matter how good it is. All these snacks were served with the most delicate of Cocktails "Pea shoots, apple marigold and vermouth" which had an almost water downed gin type oiliness yet was pure, slightly acidic and refreshing all at the same time.

My first course after the “snacks” was "Mackerel with coal oil, marinated tomatoes, seaweed and fennel" £17. Slithers of raw fish sat intertwined with sea vegetables, finely shaved fennel and fennel fronds and peeled and marinated cherry tomatoes. A intensely flavored tomato consommé was poured around the dish. This was pretty good, no it wasn't, it was superb. I just love mackerel and try to order it wherever I eat in London, as it’s not a fish available from Australian waters. Flavours were multi layered, as were the textures. Deeply satisfying yet light and balanced this dish was cool and slippery with a touch of lightly balanced acidity from the tomatoes and tomato consommé. Throughout the plate was an undulating smokiness from the coal oil, which drew the dish together. But there was more.... At the beginning of my meal I had asked the Sommelier to choose wines for my individual dishes. For the mackerel he nervously, yet confidently, insisted that I try an (so hot right now) “orange” wine from Slovenia. "Kras Vitovska, Branko Cotar" 2011 (£16.50) A whitish wine produced by macerating the red grape skins with the wine for up to a month after pressing. The wine was a golden orange and opaque, almost honey colour with a mix of citrus, bitter and floral notes. On it own it floated between good, interesting and enjoyable. Add the mackerel and it came to life, it was on longer like the mad hatters tea party, the flavours seemed to mix in some kind of alchemy that I can't explain. The wine made sense, and it indeed made sense of the food.

The next course was "Roasted John Dory, Scallop, Artichokes, Spinach and Smoked Beetroot" £36. As I was from Australia the kitchen added Warringal greens to the plate instead of listed Spinach. The fish was exceptionally well cooked firm and moist, whilst the large sweet scallops where cut in two to reveal the delicious sweet and translucent interior. The beets added sweet smokiness and an earthy quality reinforced by the artichokes. This plate was a fantastic combination of flavours and textures but in a way I kind of felt sorry for the Dory. After the preceding dishes it was akin to coming on to stage after the Beatles. The fish was very good and the combination with the beet roots and artichokes were excellent matching the meaty and assertive flavour of the fish served with "Regnie Expectatia, Christen Ducroux, 2014 Beaujolais" (£13.50pounds) that was racy floral, spicy yet sweet and light enough to accommodate the fish. But after the Beatles everyone left, went to the pub and got a drink, which is a shame as the Dory was superb.

“Above: Dessert of Apple, one of the delicious snacks and pre dessert.”

Whilst waiting for dessert I chatted with the Spanish sommelier. Horrified after informing him that my knowledge of Spanish wines was slightly better than rudimentary, and not one to miss an opportunity to expound the wonders of Galicia, a glass of Ribeira Sacra Godello, Guimero, Spain 2014 appeared. It was a lively white wine, with stone fruits with gentle and lingering acid. After a quick kitchen tour the desserts appeared

One pre dessert and two desserts proper. Served with "Gallac Renaissance, Domaine Rotier South France 2011" (£13) a rather opulent sweet white wine with apricots and figs. The predessert consisted of light of air chewing , meringue topped with intense mint oil, concealing a chewy biscuit crumb. The combination worked a treat, the mint was the star, blazing way and softening me up for what was to come.

"Apple with Cyprus tree meringue, shortbread, apple marigold" (£12). The apple sorbet was so intense, so sour, so sweet, so cold and so good that it was if I been battered around the head and into submission with an apple. The meringue was crisp and as light as air, disappearing in the mouth, contrasted with the shortbread crumbs that added a mumsy sweetness and sandy texture. This lead into the most delicate and moist olive oil cake I’ve had, in a dessert of "Sweet beetroots and blackberries, goat cheese and black olive" (£12) A combination of cake and cheese cut with intense blackberries and crunchy beetroot soil. It was as if a composed cheese course collided head on with a dessert, savoury notes and intentions, yet most defiantly sweet, and, a most interesting finish to a wonderful meal. Double espresso, petit fours and done.

This has been a mystical location for me ever since I began my cooking career some twenty-five years ago. Developing my trade during the reign of Marco Pierre-White and his successor Gordon Ramsey, the restaurant in Claridge's gained a certain mecca style appeal, particularly when viewed from Australia, which is a mecca like distance away. The dining room and service didn't disappoint, spacious, comfortable well space tables with excellent accouterments in a room of muted subtle hues reminiscent of the farm, garden and earth themes of the menu brief. The service polished and professional yet friendly and welcoming. The attention to detail could not be faulted. Meeting the chef in the kitchen between main and dessert I was shown the new development kitchen space just behind the new dining room. Have a look at Aulis@FeraClaridge's@AulisRDFera on Twitter for updates to as when this exciting new space will open. Whilst you wait go and try Simon Rogans fantastic restaurant.

Brook Street, Mayfair, London W1K 4HR.

www.feraatclaridges.co.uk

+44(0)20 7107 8888

* I don't like to go to a restaurant with a note pad and pencil, as I like to enjoy the experience in an organic way. I like to enjoy a meal, reflect on it and then make a post. I only post about things and places that I enjoy as I like to be positive at all times.

Sweet beetroots and blackberries, goat cheese and black olive